Friday, 1 September 2017

Back to the Halibut. With Andrew.

After his success on the Col d'Ornon the other day, we'd decided that the Col du  Lautaret ought to suite Andrew. Secretly, we were both harbouring the hope that if he made it to the Lautaret in reasonable shape, he'd actually want to push on to the Galibier, but neither of us wanted to admit it publicly!

As we climbed out from Le Clapier, the cloud was quite low up the valley. The further we went, the more it lifted, burning off as the morning sun finally appeared over the mountains. We made good progress up to Lac du Chambon, pausing only to switch lights on and off at the tunnels. So far so good.

Lac du Chambon as the cloud burned back
There is an automated loo at the base of the road up to Les Deux Alpes. It's always dripping wet inside when you go in to use it. After coming out, the door locks and there is the sound of a vast amount of water being sprayed. You wouldn't want to be caught inside. Never has the phrase "I'd leave that for a minute if I were you" seemed more appropriate! It's a big contrast with the very rudimentary technology employed in most of the rest stops on autoroutes.

We negotiated the refuge road without incident. There was less traffic on today than on Monday, and we even got to use the push button, specially for cyclists. The traffic lights don't always acknowledge their presence. Andrew also pointed out that there is an 'egg timer' display at the lights, showing how long it is until they will change. Nice.


The Lautaret at its atmospheric best
Progress was brisk on the flatter section just above the end of the refuge road. The Lautaret looked stunning in the sunshine, with clouds clinging to its peaks. The further we rode, the more the cloud lifted. It was spectacular.

Above La Grave, the gradient gradually picks up, but despite tunnels and steeper sections, we made good progress. I stopped from time to time to admire the jaw-dropping scenery, while Andrew pushed on. Each time, it took me a while to catch him. He was going well.

Finally, with a couple of km still to go to the Lautaret, we admitted to each other than the Galibier was the day's real goal, and started to discuss how to get there. A short stop was in order first. We pulled in to the Hôtel Des Glaciers, and I ordered two hot chocolates, in the sort of halting French that always seems to leave the staff slightly puzzled!


By the time we left to make the final push to the top, the wind had started to pick up. We made steady progress, but the ramps into wind were definitely more challenging. I was slightly concerned that the top might be in cloud when we got there, but in the event, I needn't have worried.
Les Ecrins, stunning in the cloud

This bloke kept turning up in my photos
I managed to get a few pictures of Andrew on the way up, by riding on ahead and taking photos as he went by. I'm not as talented as Ms Pickett, who was doing this last year for us in the Pyrenees. At one point, I thought I had the perfect position and was just getting my phone ready when Andrew sailed past. I had to get him to go back and ride that section again to get the shot.

I think it was worth it!
Paying respects to Henri, as you do.
After a quick stop at the memorial to Henri Desgrange, founder of the Tour de France, we headed up past the tunnel. Annoyingly, the photographer from Griffe Photo was changing memory cards when Andrew rode past him, so didn't take any pictures. Instead, here's my attempt at recreating the shot.

Managing to smile for the photographer

Andrew at the top

Me at the top. That's twice in a week!

The road to Italy

Chalet du Galibier
We stopped off at the Chalet du Galibier on the way down. Andrew wanted to buy a commemorative tee shirt, and I was looking for a Galilbier jersey. We spent a while choosing and, in my case, finding the appropriate size. I ended up with a long sleeved jersey, which is going to be good for winter conditions back home.

Cloud was moving in from the west, and the wind was strengthening as we descended. It made some corners quite tricky. It was much colder than when I was up here last Monday, and I was very glad of full fingered gloves. Pausing just for a short drink at the Lautaret, we headed down. The wind was a factor all the way down as far as the refuge road, and I didn't really start to warm up until well below La Grave.

Then it was just the blast down the gorge, and through the last couple of tunnels before arriving back in Le Clapier. For me, it was a really nice day's ride. Weirdly, it didn't seem particularly difficult, which is an odd thing to say about climbing the biggest peak in this area. For Andrew it was a considerable achievement, and the fulfillment of his major goal for this holiday. Chapeau!

The Activity for this ride is available on Strava.

We had a really nice meal at La Muzelle, and rounded off the evening in front of the telly, watching highlights of the day's Vuelta stage. I predict tomorrow may be a quiet day!

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