La Marmotte

I've wanted to complete the full Marmotte course for several years. It's been my major 'bucket list' item. The course consists of around 175 km of riding, with four mountains and nearly 5000 metres of ascent. Last year, I managed three of the four climbs, but called it a day without the final ascent of Alpe d'Huez. Today I completed the whole thing.

I rode most of the day with Shawn, from Le Velo Jaune. We were concentrating on getting round the course, so there are only a few photos. We set off at around 7:15. It was sufficiently cool that I needed a jacket, and didn't remove it until well into the first climb. Progress was brisk along the valley. We detoured through Bourg d'Oisans, as that is the start of the official Marmotte, and headed along the main road to Allemont. There we had a comfort break before setting off for the first climb proper to the Glandon. For me this is one of the most difficult parts of the entire route. It's an unrelenting climb in the forest all the way to Rivier Allemont. A lot of it is around 10% and there are no hairpins to break the effort. Shawn pulled away up this section but we regrouped at Rivier Allemont, to fill bottles at the 'basin' and for me finally to remove my jacket.

After Rivier Allemont, the road plunges steeply down to cross the valley and to climb back up, even more steeply on the other side. This section had to be added when the hillside collapsed. The ground was too unstable to rebuild the line of the old road. It's a real slog at above 10% for over a kilometre before another short descent, crossing back to the original side. The steep climb continues until eventually, the road rejoins the original at a hairpin. From here on the gradients ease and the best part of the climb starts. The barrage at Lac Grand Maison is soon in view, and after a couple more hairpins, the road flattens high above the lake with spectacular views across it. A fast, open descent follows, before its time to zip up and look fresh for the photographer. After a couple more kilometres we reached the top of the Glandon, and the obligatory photograph (thanks Shawn). One down, three to go.

At the top of the Glandon (photo courtesy of Shawn)

Pausing only to feed and drink, we headed down the far side of the Glandon. Shawn was much quicker than me on the descent. I backed off and enjoyed the ride. It is steep and has lots of hairpins at the top, but opens out for a time, and can be quite fast. We regrouped at the 'basin' in Saint-Colomban-des-Villards, to replenish bottles, before the final descent into Saint-Etienne-de-Cuines where we hooked up again.

From here the route traverses the Maurienne valley to Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne, which is at the foot of the climb to the Telegraphe. The Maurienne valley is heavily industrialised. It also contains the main autoroute to Italy, and a main line railway, as well as a large river. The valley is initially wide, but at some points considerable ingenuity is needed to fit it all in. The road along the valley threads between huge industrial complexes and a vast marshalling yard at Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne, but becomes a bit more rural for a while before reaching Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne. Thankfully, the traffic was quite light. Try as I might, I wasn't able to hold Shawn's wheel for much of this section, and couldn't manage to lead any of it.

We finally reached the small car park at the base of the climb to the Telegraphe. This has a hand pump for fresh water, rather than a 'basin'. I filled my bottles, and Shawn made up energy drink from the powder he brought with him. We also ate, and I took my first caffeine gel.

Pit stop 1 at the base of the Telegraphe

Most of the climb to the Col du Telegraphe is in a forest. There are few views. It has a fairly constant gradient of around 9%. At one point, there is a large 'aire du pique nique', a term which must have proponents of the purity of the French language cringing. This too has a hand cranked pump for water, just like the one in the car park at the base. I don't remember seeing those anywhere else. Shawn pulled ahead on the climb. His prediction about mad motorcyclists came true with a vengeance on the climb. Sunday seems to be the day when they all want to treat it like a race track.

I stopped just before the top where there is the one opportunity to take a photo looking across the valley.

The main road to Italy in the Maurienne valley

When I reached the top, Shawn was already in the Relais du Telegraphe, the cafe on the left, and his order of chips had just arrived! I tried to order a cafe alongers, which is an expresso with additional water. I needed help. My stumbling attempt was more like cafe longeur, which wasn't close enough for the waitress to recognise what I was asking for! The cafe normally has a standpipe in its car park so that riders can fill bottles. It wasn't working this year. We decided that we probably had enough water to make it to Plan Lachat, where there is a 'basin'.

Two down, two to go.

At the top of the Telegraphe (photo courtesy of Shawn)

After a decent break for pit stop 2, and the obligatory photo in front of the massive straw sculpture of a skier, (thanks Shawn!), we headed down to Valloire. This town is ski resort in winter, and a base for sightseeing, biking and hiking in summer. It's usually very busy, and you have to be careful to avoid pedestrians who think nothing of suddenly stepping out into the road. This year was different. It was amazingly quiet. Maybe everyone was having lunch. Anyway, this turned out to be a problem. In the centre of the town is a rough cobbled section of traffic calming. Following Shawn, I realised too late that I wanted to slow down to smooth the ride, and that I needed my small ring. I changed down just as I hit the first cobbles and that was enough to unship my chain. Nothing for it but to stop.

Fortunately, I carry a sandwich bag for this kind of mishap. By turning it inside out and putting my hand inside, I was able to refit the chain while staying clean, and then seal the oily residue inside by turning the bag the right way around again. It only took a couple of minutes. A side benefit was that I found the 'basin' in Valloire. It was right where my chain came off!

Shawn was waiting for me near the church, which also has a 'basin' as it turns out. We headed out of Valloire for Plan Lachat. A little way out of town there is a small park on the left. At this time of year, with harvest festival just having been celebrated, there are enormous straw sculptures there. It seems to be an international competition. It's been here every year that I have. Very impressive. This section of the climb to the Galibier climbs the open valley above Valloire. It's pretty straight for most of the way, with only occasional hairpins. The scenery is spectacular, and takes the edge of the not inconsiderable effort needed to climb it. It is unrelenting. Shawn was well ahead on most of this section, but as the gradients started to ease towards Plan Lachat, my legs felt better and I sped up, even re-passing a couple who passed me earlier on the climb. We finally reached the 'basin' almost together.

The cafe at Plan Lachat

It's the Galibier climb, and it's stunning all the way up

Pit stop 3 at Plan Lachat

We refilled bottles once more and had a decent break, before heading up the final 8 kilometres to the summit. This section is hard, but has fantastic views. It's a series of hairpins and longer ramps across an increasingly bear landscape with rocks scattered everywhere. Last year I had to stop several times on this section. This year I did just once, above the cheese shop. Hey, it's France and yes, there is a cheese shop on Galibier. They were doing a roaring trade too, judging by the queue! I took my second caffeine gel ready for the final push to the top.

A bit further on, there was a photographer, snapping people going up and down. I held back to let a couple of cars go by, then tried my best to look like a cyclist as I reached him. Here's the result.

Posing for the camera and trying to make it look easy!

Mind you, with that backdrop, anyone would look good!

In just over an hour, from Plan Lachat, I ground my way to the top of the biggest climb of the day. Shawn took the photo.

Three down, one to go.

At the top of the Galibier (photo courtesy of Shawn)

Shawn had already decided that he wasn't going to ride up the Alpe at the end of the day. He would stop when he reached Le Velo Jaune at the end of the descent off the Lautaret. We left the top of the Galibier, planning to regroup at the Lautaret, which we did. Again, I didn't try and keep up with him on the descent, I just concentrated on enjoying it as much as possible before the final climb of the day.

In previous years this descent has been bitterly cold, with wind whipping across the top of the col. This time, though, it was very pleasant. The spectre of the final ascent of Alpe d'Huez did take the edge off my enjoyment though. At the Lautaret, I bade Shawn farewell as he headed home, then got my lights working (don't ask!) ready for the tunnels. I set off down the Lautaret which was busy, but mercifully truck-free, it being a Sunday.  I stopped in La Grave to top up my bottles. The next opportunity was going to be at Dutch Corner, hairpin 7 on the climb to Alpe d'Huez.

I rode on down to where the relief road, which was key to last year's trip, joins the main road, and stopped to remove my jacket. Then it was on down through the remaining tunnels and the gorge down to Le Clapier. It took a lot of will power to ride past Le Velo Jaune and along the valley to the foot of Alpe d'Huez.

I stopped in the car park at the roundabout, and had my final caffeine gel. Nothing for it now but to grind my way to the top. And what a grind it was. When I first rode the climb over a week ago, I had no trouble putting out 200 watts and spinning my way to the top, wondering what all the fuss was about. Now, with over 160 kilometres of riding behind me, I could barely maintain 160 watts. The first two long ramps seemed interminable. I stopped for water and food a number of times on the way up, and once even took off my shoes to relieve my feet. When I finally got to Dutch Corner I refilled my bottles, and doused my cap to help keep my head cool for the remaining effort. Things do get gradually easier above this point, but its fair to say it was a struggle all the way to the finish in the village. No final sprint today!

At the end, in Alpe d'Huez

I took the obligatory photo, and messaged Martin to let him know I had finally made it. Then it was time for the descent. By now the sun was setting, and having cooked on the way up, I knew it would be really cold on the way down. I wasn't disappointed. Even with a jacket I was shivering as I descended. This was more like coming off the Galibier on a really cold day. I was shaking so much it was hard to control the bike in places.

The Dutch may have hairpin 7, but these days, in honour of Geraint Thomas, the Welsh have taken over hairpin 14, further down the mountain. It's now known as Cymru Corner. Because of Thomas's nickname 'G', some wag has labelled this 'The G Spot'. Given that, I'm amazed any male Welsh fans managed to find it! Anyhow, I can safely say that on this descent, I shivered all the way to the G spot!

Finally I began to warm up, and once safely at the bottom, it was just a matter of time trialling the few kilometres along the valley back to Le Velo Jaune. I had a quick shower, and was just in time for dinner, which had been put back an hour for me.

So there we are. I've finally completed a full Marmotte. The final climb to Alpe d'Huez is one of the hardest things I've ever done on a bike. Chapeau to anyone who manages to complete this. The full Marmotte is a lot harder than the mini I did last year.

The main problem now is that my bucket list is empty. What next?

Full details of the ride are on Strava.